Silver Creek Entertainment

@ Sagwa- I'm not sure how to do the quote option on here, but if it regularly takes you 20-33 hands and 60 minutes to play a game off 500 no pass, you or the people you are playing with need some serious help on bidding. Either you are going set way too often, or taking way too many bags. Rarely do ...

Please just make it streamlined. I hope there is a separate rating for partner games vs individual games. As it is now, it's nearly impossible to to set a high rated game in Smoots and be sure that all players will be relatively equal in skill. There is no system that can make it perfect, it just ne...

Sorry if I'm double posting a conversation that is already taking place, but I couldnt find it anywhere. Games aren't showing up in players game logs, and the link that shows the players currently online seems to be stuck since Friday. Anybody have any information on this?

I really only use the high/low technique, although I can see the advantages of employing more signals to convey information to your partner about what you are holding. Now, if you did employ other techniques, and they were shared with all players prior to the game, I imagine there will be some plays...

Obviously leading the only low spade out of his hand, the 6 :spade: was just terrible, and the other one isn't so obvious. For starters, he shouldnt have worried of his 5 bid and left me in the lead for as long as possible, therefore forcing me use my cover cards and he could attack the nil by playi...

Yes you're right. My apologies to Joe. And the name of the book is The Complete Win At Spades: Basic, Intermediate, and Advanced Strategies and Official Rules

Not sure how to use the quote option on here how it is meant to be used, but I agree that 5 is a safe bid for my hand, and it is probable I can make 6 in most situations. However, if I trump in on one of my short suits, either club or heart, and get overtrumped behind me, there is very little chance...

Sorry for the layout Dustin, that is much easier to read. I see your point in bidding tight to relay information to my pard in 4th seat to help her make the best bid, but I'm still not sure I agree with max bidding out of my hand for a couple reasons. First off, let's imagine East and South swapped ...

Galt,

What would have bid with my hand in this position? (2nd seat) I ended up bidding 4, but I would normally have bid 5, and I could have even maxed with 6 if my pard leads spades.

Yes, sorry. I bid 4... in a normal situation I would have bid 5, although I could have bid 6 if I really wanted to max. So the bids in front are 5, 4 for pard, and nil in 3rd seat.

The score is N/S 444 E/W 410. W opens with 5 bid holding: 6JA :spade: 89A :heart: 910JK :club: 4QK :diamond: I am in the N seat, 2nd to bid holding: 234QK :spade: QK :heart: 46 :club: 79JA :diamond: Generally, I would bid 5 with this hand, but given the situation I felt it was necessary to underbid ...

Ahhh... ok! That makes sense. I guess I had never considered or read anything about this before, but I can definitely see the advantage. Thanks for the tip, I'll have to keep this in mind.

I'm interested in learning some reasons why you would lead the King when holding Ace, King. I can only think of one occasion when I would want to cut the King. I had a this past week, where I could have conceivably bid 12, maybe even 13 with the correct lead on the first card. I was 4th seat holding...

That's true Galt. Bidding nil in this position can force the 4th bidder to bid a risky nil as well, which can extend the game several more hands. Given the previous bids and the weakness of my hand, I didn't really consider her having a hand she could try to nil with is the reason I didn't mention t...

If I bid 1 luv, the 4th bidder only has to bid 2 for 500. They now have a team bid of 3. Considering my pard bid first, and bid 4, I find it extremely unlikely my pard is holding 10 tricks. There is no chance for setting a 3 bid here.